Chockers with dazzling waterfalls, extinct volcano crater lakes, natural horizon rock pools that gaze over untouched national parks, and an abundance of wildlife – from platypus to tree kangaroos – Queensland’s Atherton Tablelands is a magical region to explore. And with an average temperature of 29 degrees during the often-stifling humidity of summer, the cooler Atherton Tablelands is the perfect base for adventures.
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Only one hour and 20 minutes inland from Cairns, Atherton is central enough to explore the waterfall circuit, spot platypus at Yungaburra and there’s a bunch of fabulous activities in town too.
We spent two weeks in the tropical north, and four nights at Atherton. Each night we parked up our JUCY condo at the Atherton Big 4 caravan park, enjoyed the nature and swam in the pool before cooking up our sausages and steak on the portable BBQ out the back of the van. We could have used the camp kitchen but why walk anywhere when you can have a wine and cook the snags at home. We loved it here, nestled in the trees – t’s safe, its a lovely caravan park and there’s a pool. Perfect. Read our JUCY campervan review here!
Best Friday night drinks ever
Our favourite things to do in Atherton include the incredible Crystal Caves in town – literally crustal caves built into a shop – with crystals for sale out the front and an incredible cave inside that’s an other-worldly experience as you wander through the underground maze full of crystals. Once we were back out Emmie cracked a five million year old geode. It was one of her best days.
Fun at Crystal Caves
Just down the road from the Atherton Big 4 is the Tolga Bat Hospital, Australia’s largest bat rehabilitation centre. It rescued young flying foxes that have been orphaned by tick paralysis and is open to visitors every day. Bookings are essential.
We discovered the fabulous Station Café at the old railway station, just a few minutes from the caravan park. It’s next to a creek where you may be able to spot a platypus – we were chased away by grumpy geese so did not see any – and a kids playground. There are craft shops in the old carriages, a model railway you can run, and the most delicious café where we first tried brisket (which is now our meat treat meal) and other delicious home-style meals and deserts. Definitely check it out while you’re there. The Station Café, 78-80 Weaver Street, Atherton.
Delicious food here, do stop in.
Atherton is also home to the Tablelands Regional Gallery, the Hou Wang Miau Chinese Temple and Museum, the last timber and iron Chinese temple in Australia, built in 1903 and delicious ice cream and strawberry picking just outside town at Shaylee Strawberry Farm. The strawberry ice cream is the BEST!
Yummo at Shaylee Strawberry Farm
The main street has lots of specialist shops, there’s a Woothworths and a Coles and a few bottleshops. It has everything you’d need, I even went to a chiropractor to have my shoulder adjusted while we were there! Turns out it was torn so the cracking didn’t help, but it gave me some short term relief (so did wine time, also necessary on a campervan trip).
Head out of Atherton and there’s even more to explore:
The Waterfall Circuit is on everyone’s list, and it’s an easy drive around some of Queensland’s most famous waterfalls inclusing the beautiful trio of Millaa Millaa, Zillie and Ellinjaa Falls. Make sure to visit the actual town of Milla Milla for a cuppa, visit its historical museum and walk along its beautiful community pathway, built by locals. We saw bush turkeys here, in fact they’re everywhere around the tropical north, we loved spotting them.
Millaa Millaa Falls
You’ll see signs for waterfalls, or just google the area. Many are a short walk in, and some you can drive so close to. Babinda Boulders is another local favourite but do be very careful about where you swim here, and Josephine Falls has amazing natural rock slides.
We loved Halls Falls, on the road south out of Atherton. We followed Google Maps and bush bashed our way in to have a swimming hole and falls all to ourselves.
The Curtin Fig Tree is on the Waterfall Circuit so stop off for a wander along the boardwalk and gaze way up at this incredible tree.
Up in Mareeba, only a 30 minute drive north, you can watch a movie at the drive in and stay overnight for free, race around the go-cart track, and climb Davies Falls and Emerald Falls.
Emerald Creek Falls
Emerald Falls is especially beautiful – and slippery – at the waterhole just below the falls, and if you go all the way to the top of Davies (you can drive most of the way there) you’ll find an amazing lookout and a creek that you can have all to yourself. Both of these falls have amazing natural rock pools with views out over the national parks. With its coffee plantations and wineries you’ll find a lot to keep you happy and busy in Mareeba.
Davies Creek Falls
Lake Eacham is a beautiful old volcano crater lake that is perfect for a dip and a cool-off during the hot weather. You can walk along pathways around the lake, snorkel and picnic – the facilities are fabulous! There is one friendly croc in the lake so do keep a lookout. When you’re done, have a mosey through beautiful Yungaburra and a meal at the pub. If it’s getting late, chance you luck at spotting a platypus in the creek.
Beautiful Lake Eacham
Innot is a bit of a drive from Atherton, around 90 minutes, but you can stop in at Malanda for a dip in the waterfall and swimming hole there, and you’ll pass a few more waterfalls on your way that are worthy of a look.
Innot Hot Springs
We loved the Innot Hot Springs, even in the hot weather they were delicious to lie in and Emmie wore her goggles and picked small chunks of quartz from the creek bed. There’s a caravan park here that has proper pools of varying heat, but we just sat in the river. It was the best.
On the way back to Cairns stop in at Behana Falls – it’s about an hours hike in – and check out Walsh’s Pyramid on your way out.
This is just a snapshot of the amazingness of the Atherton Tablelands. Make sure to visit, it’s incredible.
