Just over a year ago my daughter and I were in Myanmar watching monks walk the streets under umbrellas in the sunshine, exploring riverside temples, visiting monasteries, sailing on the Irrawaddy and listening to Buddhist chants float across the burnt orange sky at dusk.
Today, brave young men and women are being beaten and murdered in the streets as they peacefully protest for democracy.
In Yangon, soft-spoken young students guided us through golden pagodas, sharing Myanmar’s deeply religious heart and using their small fee to help pay for their education. We rang huge iron bells with heavy pieces of wood, donated alms and fell under the spell of these quiet, kind people.
Right now Yangon’s streets are full of tanks and armed military who are hunting protesters, dragging them from their homes and arresting them. Buildings are on fire. Police have occupied hospitals and universities and are using grenades and live ammunition on civilians.
In Mandalay the steamy heat made the horizon shimmer as golden stupas poked their spires into the sky. We wandered Mingun Island, finding our way to the beautiful white Hsinbyume Pagoda. We met beautifully kind monks who treated us to a meal at their monastery.
Emmie learnt greetings that delighted the locals who watched us walk past, this blonde mum and daughter with their backpacks, who also knew the happiness of a simple life.
In Mandalay last week, 19 year old Kyel Sin was shot in the head as she peacefully protested for democracy. She and 37 year old Myo Naing died from their wounds.
More than 150 people have been killed, hundreds wounded and thousands arrested since the coup began on 1 February this year. Their bravery and fight for democracy is humbling.
To donate please click here for a verified foundation to support the people, established by an Australian with long and close connections to Myanmar. I have donated to this fundraiser
In Bagan we hired a motorbike and explored the ancient golden temples that dot the dusty, scrubby ground and at one, a smiling local appeared with a key to unlock a gate, and we gazed at ancient murals illuminated by our torch. We sailed over these temples in a hot air balloon as children chased our shadow below, and watched as a fireball sun set over rounded stupas.
Police have been firing on peaceful protesters in Bagan, Myanmar’s ancient capital, and their surrounding towns. Some are under martial law and the military delights in shooting civilian in the head. They walk the streets with live ammunition in their guns, beating anyone who tries to leave their home.
We met friendly locals everywhere here in this beautiful yet turmoil-wracked country. And as we find over and over again in Asia, the people who have endured the most pain seem to have the widest smiles and the biggest hearts.
We left Myanmar, but the emotion from our journey remained. We were touched forever by our time there, and we messaged the friends we had made and reminisced about returning.
That may never happen, because now, across the country chanting has been replaced with gunfire. Tanks, armed soldiers and police patrol the streets, shooting at young men and women who are peacefully protesting for democracy.
Martial law has been declared in many towns and as night falls, the internet is cut and soldiers attack.
The coup overthrew the democratically elected government and plunged Myanmar back into military rule. The leader of the National League for Democracy – Aung San Suu Kyi – is imprisoned in an unknown location, and two of the party’s Ministers have died in custody.
This tragedy is playing out before us but it seems very few are watching. Where is the outrage?
Isn’t there an unspoken agreement that once a country and its people enter your heart that you help them when they need it?
Do we, as travellers, holiday-makers, explorers and adventurers, owe a debt of kindness to the counties we visit? If we accept hospitality and kindness from local people with very little to give, is it up to us to give back when they need help?
We need to start the uncomfortable conversations about what is happening in Myanmar.
Myanmar is in trouble and needs our attention. If you have been to Myanmar, please learn about what is happening there right now and share as much as you can. Please start conversations with friends and family. Please donate to reputable fundraisers. Please show your support online so the Myanmar people can see we are listening and we care.
If you befriend locals on your travels or holiday, if you accept their hospitality, and especially if you profit or benefit from their kindness and generosity, then surely you are indebted to raise awareness and help when they need it.
Don’t let them think they are alone.
The connections you make when we travel don’t end when we return home. While there may be distance, the responsibility of a privileged traveller remains.
NOTE. I don’t take photos of children or locals, and have purposely chosen photographs that don’t identify anyone we met on our travels.
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