Our Sri Lanka travels are some of the most special adventures we’ve had, and families visiting Sri Lanka will have a holiday like no other. Sri Lanka’s white-sand beaches and palm trees, epic train rides through terraced tea plantations, wild elephants, ancient ruins and fortresses, delicious curries and wide-grinned happy locals who still welcome tourists with open arms is a refreshing trip back to the simple days of travel.
“We need to buy land here,” I told to eight-year-old Emmie when we stumbled upon the horseshoe-shaped Hiriketiya Beach a few years ago, and we almost did. This tiny bay on Sri Lanka’s south coast is calm enough for children to splash around in and learn to surf while mum and dad take on the bigger waves out the back. Thatched huts selling pizza, coffee and cocktails line the beach and you can get surf lessons from locals at any time of the day. It was one of many Sri Lankan villages where we fell in love and dreamed of building a little guesthouse.
When I ask Emmie what she likes most about Sri Lanka I get a long list of loves – from seeing elephants in the wild, feeling the long grass whip her feet from the doorway of the blue train, hiking Sigiriya Rock and learning to surf against a backdrop of palms and blue sky.
She adores getting around barefoot, chasing the music-playing ‘bread men’ who deal fresh sugar buns from the back of their tuk tuks, and gazing at the graceful sari-clad women who glide past, adding colourful splashes to the jungle-green landscape.
You could spend months in Sri Lanka and still not touch the sides, but after many visits we have our favourites that take us on an easy loop, starting with a night or two settling in at Negombo beach. It’s only a 30 minute ride from the airport and is a great spot to settle into the heat, enjoy some local short eats and get ready for your adventure.
Next, take the train or a private car to Sigiriya for a few days. We stayed at The Hideout (we’ve stayed there twice now on our Sri Lanka trips) , a beautiful family owned guesthouse with swimming pool and made with love. It also has treehouses! There is lots of accommodation here, from basic guest-houses to boutique luxury resorts – check them out here.
The climb to the ancient ruins of a fortress palace atop Sigiriya Rock is challenging but not difficult, though best for kids aged around five and up. Climb early in the morning to beat the crowds and the heat. It’s worthwhile hiring an accredited guide here – they will approach you as you walk through the gardens to the rock. You can also climb Pidurangula Rock which gives you a view of the rock, but it is much more challenging and has a tough rocky climb at the top, so beware if you have small children.
Whilst here visit the Dambulla rock temples and make sure to try kottu, hoppers and the ubiquitous curry triangles. There are many traditional Ayurvedic massage centres around town where you’ll be covered in oil and your ailments massaged away.
Only 40 minutes from Sigiriya, Minneriya National Park is home to hundreds of wild elephants who wander in herds and play along the grassy shores of the reservoir, occasionally charging in for a splash. You can book your safari though your hotel for around $50 a truck plus park entry fees. It’s an incredible experience that you won’t want to miss.
Next, travel to Kandy and spend the night, visiting the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, the Botanic Gardens and the Child Action Lanka Cafe which helps local children and families in poverty. It also supports single mothers, who are often overlooked because of their status.
The train ride from Kandy to Ella along the tea plantation route is not to be missed. Book seats in the 2nd or 3rd class reserved carriage, where you will have your own seats and the vestibule doorways are open for fun! You can sit here and watch the world go by as you pass villages, tea plantations, waterfalls and mountains. Find all the tips for booking here.
Jump off in laid-back Ella and enjoy this little town that sparkles with fairy lights in the evening. Wander along an easy path past colourful ladies picking tea up to Little Adam’s Peak for gorgeous views across the mountains, and discover waterfalls and hiking trails that are suitable for kids. Check the train timetable and make your way to the Nine Arches Bridge to watch the train cross whilst sipping a fruit juice from one of the hillside bars. Then follow the train tracks back into town as herds of cows and kids on their way home from school pass you by.
You can visit a tea plantation here in Ella, or if you’re interested in colonial architecture spend a few days in the Nuwara Eliya hill country where the elevation is perfect for growing tea. Wander the town visiting tea plantations, old colonial homesteads and historical buildings like the Post Office and Queens Cottage. There’s a colourful old park in the Botanical Gardens with ancient rides and an old ferris wheel – close parental supervision is recommended!
Finally, choose a beach to spend some time at or beach-hop your way back to Colombo.
Our picks are Hiriketiya, Dickwella, Mirissa and Unawatuna. From Unawatuna pop down to Dalawella Beach early in the morning to see the stilt fishermen, and make sure to spend a day at Galle – a fortified city built by the Portuguese – and wander its cobblestone streets and fortress walls.
In Hikkaduwa check out the giant turtles who come into the shallows to eat the sea grass. Pay your respects to the people of Sri Lanka with a visit to the Tsunami Education Centre & Museum which is staffed by survivors of the disaster, many who lost their entire families. The educational displays are fine for kids, but some of the photos can be confronting so keep an eye on them. Up the road is a memorial to the victims of the tsunami and a stop here is also recommended to acknowledge those who passed.
Finally, make your way back to Colombo and the bustle and chaos of this energetic city. Of course, you will wish you had more time to explore but now that Sri Lanka has your heart, you are sure to return.